Start Planning Your Fall Garden
As the dog days of summer start to wind down, many gardeners find themselves staring at empty patches in their plots where early-season crops like corn, green beans, or tomatoes have been harvested. But don't let that space go to waste! This is the perfect time to dive into succession planting—a smart strategy that keeps your garden productive well into fall and even winter. In this post, I'll walk you through how to plan for succession planting in your late summer garden, with practical examples and tips to get you started. Whether you're a seasoned green thumb or a newbie, this approach can boost your yields, improve soil health, and extend your growing season.
What Is Succession Planting and Why Do It in Late Summer?
Succession planting simply means following one crop with another in the same space, ensuring continuous production without leaving soil bare. In late summer (typically late July through August in most temperate climates), the weather is still warm enough for quick germination, but cooling nights signal the shift to cooler-season veggies.
The benefits are huge:
Extended Harvests: Instead of a one-and-done season, you'll have fresh produce rolling in through autumn.
Soil Protection: Planting cover crops prevents erosion, suppresses weeds, and adds nutrients back into the earth.
Efficiency: It maximizes small spaces, reduces pest buildup, and can even improve biodiversity in your garden.
Late summer is ideal because many warm-season crops are wrapping up, freeing up real estate just as cool-weather plants thrive. Plus, with shorter days ahead, you're setting up for success before frost hits.
Step 1: Assess Your Garden and Harvest Timing
Before planting anew, take stock of what's ready to come out. Walk your garden and note:
Crops to Harvest: Corn stalks might be tall and spent after picking ears; green beans often peter out after multiple pickings; summer squash or cucumbers could be exhausted.
Soil Condition: Check for compaction or nutrient depletion. A quick soil test (pH ideally 6.0-7.0) can guide amendments.
Timing: Aim to succession plant within a week of harvesting to minimize weed invasion. In zones 5-7, late summer plantings can mature before first frost (usually October-November).
Pro Tip: Keep a garden journal! Note harvest dates and what follows—this builds a personalized plan over years.
Step 2: Choose Your Succession Crops
The key is selecting plants that match the season's cooling trend. Focus on fast-maturing, frost-tolerant varieties. Here are some top picks, tailored to common late-summer vacancies:
After Harvesting Corn
Corn is a heavy feeder, so it leaves soil nitrogen-depleted. Replenish with:
Turnips or Radishes: These root veggies germinate in 3-5 days and mature in 30-60 days. Plant seeds directly ½ inch deep, spaced 2-4 inches apart. They're great for fall salads or roasting.
Kale or Collards: Sow seeds or transplant seedlings for hardy greens that sweeten with frost. Space 12-18 inches apart; they can overwinter in milder climates.
Cover Crops like Crimson Clover: If you're not eating from the spot immediately, broadcast clover seeds. It fixes nitrogen, prevents erosion, and can be tilled under in spring as green manure.
Example: In my own garden, after pulling corn in mid-August, I plant 'Purple Top' turnips. By October, I’ll have a bumper crop—perfect for soups!
After Harvesting Green Beans
Beans enrich soil with nitrogen (thanks to their root nodules), making it prime for leafy greens or brassicas.
Kale or Mustard Greens: Quick-growing and nutritious. Direct sow seeds ¼ inch deep; thin to 8-12 inches. Harvest baby leaves for salads or let mature for stir-fries.
Beets or Carrots: These roots love the loose soil left by beans. Plant in rows 3 inches apart; they store well for winter.
Cover Crops like Winter Rye: Hardy and weed-suppressing. Sow densely and mow in spring before it seeds—it adds organic matter when incorporated.
Fun Fact: Succession planting beans with kale creates a natural rotation that deters pests like aphids, as the crops attract different beneficial insects.
Other Late Summer Transitions
After Tomatoes or Peppers: Plant spinach, lettuce, or arugula for quick salads. These bolt less in cooling weather.
After Squash or Cucumbers: Try broccoli or cabbage transplants; they need 60-80 days but handle light frosts.
General Cover Crop Options: If food isn't the goal, go for oats, buckwheat, or a mix. These grow fast, smother weeds, and improve tilth.
Remember, match crops to your USDA hardiness zone. In warmer areas (zones 8+), you might squeeze in another round of beans or okra.
Step 3: Preparation and Planting Tips
Succession success hinges on good prep:
Clear and Amend Soil: Remove old plants (compost healthy ones; discard diseased). Loosen soil with a fork, add compost or aged manure for nutrients.
Watering and Mulching: Late summer can be dry—water deeply post-planting. Mulch with straw to retain moisture and cool roots.
Spacing and Companions: Use intensive planting to fit more in. Pair nitrogen-fixers (like peas) with heavy feeders.
Pest Management: Rotate families (e.g., no brassicas after brassicas) to avoid disease. Row covers protect seedlings from bugs.
Timing Nuances: Check local frost dates. Start seeds indoors if needed for a head start.
Potential Pitfalls: Overcrowding leads to poor airflow and disease—give plants room. If summer heat lingers, shade cloth can prevent bolting.
The Rewards: A Thriving Fall Garden
By embracing succession planting, your late summer garden transforms from a fading memory into a vibrant extension of the season. Imagine pulling fresh kale in November or digging turnips for Thanksgiving dinner—all from space that could've been idle. Plus, cover crops set you up for a healthier spring start, closing the loop on sustainable gardening.
If you're just starting, pick one bed to experiment with. Grab some seeds, get your hands dirty, and watch the magic unfold. What's your favorite succession combo? Share in the comments—I'd love to hear!
Cover image via pxHere - CC0 Public Domain
